The ancient city – with its gardens, hammams and Moorish architecture – comes alive in spring and its Holy Week processions are among the most authentic in Andalucía
A
s I turned the corner on a narrow, cobbled street in Granada, I felt as if I had stumbled upon a slightly sinister re-enactment society. Mysterious men dressed in white robes and tall, conical, face-covering hats with slits for their eyes were followed by women in black dresses and mantillas, holding pillar candles and crosses, then children wearing caped cloaks, carrying baskets of prayer cards.
It was indeed a re-enactment of sorts, but deeply rooted in Catholicism, representing the Passion of Christ, staged during Holy Week (Semana Santa), which runs from 29 March to 5 April this year. Easter processions are held across the country, but this Andalucían city hosts one of the most authentic in Spain.
Unlike more celebratory parades, these are sombre affairs, as each of the 32 brotherhoods weaves its way through the streets with enormous floats (pasos) hoisted on the shoulders of scores of men (costaleros) who spend months preparing for this herculean task – a coveted role, often passed down from father to son. To rehearse, they carry heavy wooden tables through the streets after dark, which is a startling sight when you come across a team in training.
