From B&Bs and cabins to fincas and family hotels, these rural boltholes make ideal bases for exploring the region’s mountains, trails and historic towns and villages
F
or centuries, outsiders have been lured to the radiant hills and valleys of Andalucía, not least the Moors of north Africa who left such an impact on the land and culture. More recently, an influx of northern European aficionados has fostered a string of seductive, small-scale guesthouses to join some idiosyncratic Spanish-owned properties. These are idyllic, tranquil settings in which to de-stress and recharge, hike, ride, cycle, cook, swim or simply stargaze – the rural skies here are blissfully free of light pollution. Nor are cultural highlights ever far away, whether in Granada, Córdoba or Seville.
Near Gérgal, in the eastern mountains bordering the Sierra de los Filabres, this Belgian-owned bed and breakfast has three charming rooms with ample outside space, views and a pool. Although isolated, it has unbeatable access to regional highlights including Europe’s only desert, which surrounds the old film studios of Tabernas; Almería’s stupendous fortress; and the wild beaches of Cabo de Gata. A lesser known lure is the Calar Alto astronomical observatory, one of Europe’s largest, perched on a nearby mountaintop, where night visits are available. Mediterranean dinners (€25) at Casa Mimi are on request and use seasonal produce, guaranteed by these former restaurateurs, Priscilla and Ben. The entire property of four bedrooms can be rented.
