Another wave breaks in front of the old church as I hoik myself on to my board and surf towards the shore. It feels surreal to be surfing in a city, but if anywhere was going to pull off something as audacious as this urban wave pool it would be Rotterdam – a living laboratory for mad architecture.“People come from all over Europe to do this,” says Tom Verhoeven, my instructor, as we wait for the next set of waves. “There’s nowhere else like it.”

Verhoeven is just back from Australia, where he spent two years searching for the best breaks. While he was away, RiF010 opened in his homeland, offering perfect waves that can be cranked up with the turn of a dial.

A sufer at RiF010. Residents have the opportunity to practice surfing within the city

I surf for a merry hour as the sun disappears behind the high-rises, then retire to a nearby bar where a DJ plays to a young crowd. Over a beer, I watch the off-duty instructors ride barrel waves.

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