Derek Lam’s spring 2027 presentation opens Friday afternoon with more color, prints and embellishment than Robert Rodriguez’s February debut. The bigger change is happening behind the scenes, as the company rebuilds the label with a smaller distribution network, a tightly controlled price range and less dependence on promotional customers.Public Clothing Company sold the intellectual property of Derek Lam 10 Crosby to NYC Alliance in April, separating the contemporary line from the revived Derek Lam Collection. The main line returned to NYFW in February under Rodriguez, six years after it was shuttered.
Derek Lam president Danielle Alalu is positioning the collection within a $295-$1,295 price range, below brands including Zimmermann, Ulla Johnson and Veronica Beard.
“We’ve seen a white space in the advanced contemporary world in terms of being a little bit sharper from a price-point standpoint,” Alalu said in an interview with Glossy ahead of the presentation. “Prices have gone up so far, and with a lot of these brands, the customer might say, ‘I can just buy designer at that point.’”
The company is also rebuilding its customer base. Its relaunched e-commerce site currently produces around 15% of sales, with wholesale accounting for the rest. Rather than targeting shoppers accustomed to buying 10 Crosby on sale, Derek Lam is returning to old customer lists and prioritizing people with a history of full-price purchases.
