Which, in truth, is your vermouth?

Manhattans, Martinis, Spritzes, Negronis: vermouth-laced classics are in vogue. But which brands are being poured now in the world’s best bars?

For traditional Italian vermouth, Cocchi is the go-to. Founded in Turin, in 1891, the family-owned producer makes a rich, red Vermouth di Torino (£24.25 for 75cl) that’s great in whisky drinks, and aperitivi like the sherry-and-vermouth-based Adonis, currently on the menu at London’s Bar Flor. Cocchi’s crunchy, green Extra Dry (£20.50 for 50cl) is also a mainstay of Martinis from The Dover to The Savoy. The hard-to-find Vergano Vermouth (£41.25 for 75cl) – hand-made in Asti from local wines – is also popular. “It’s so complex and aromatic,” says Aryan Anbari, general manager of Brawn restaurant.

González Byass La Copa Extra Seco, £17.50 for 75cl. BUY

Lustau blanco vermouth, €14.40 for 75cl. BUY

Unusual botanicals are a signature of the vermouth new-wave