Catherine Deneuve photographed by Michael Comte for a Pomellato advertisement in 1994PomellatoPomellato has opened its first public exhibition in Paris, “Pomellato, Le Joaillier Révolutionnaire,” at the Palais de Tokyo, where it will run from June 24 through July 20.The exhibition offers an immersive look at the Italian jeweler’s evolution since its founding in Milan in 1967, tracing how the brand reshaped contemporary jewelry through innovative design, craftsmanship, color and advertising while championing women who buy jewelry for themselves.2001 Nudo rings by PomellatoPomellatoRather than serving as a traditional retrospective, the exhibition explores the creative and cultural forces that established Pomellato’s identity from the late 1960s through the 1990s. Visitors follow the evolution of the house’s signature gold chains, sculptural jewelry, unconventional use of colored gemstones and groundbreaking advertising campaigns that portrayed women as independent, confident and authentic.A 1971 Pomellato advertisement photograph by Gian Paolo BarbieriPomellato“This exhibition is not a retrospective, but a living archive: a dialogue between heritage and evolution,” Sabina Belli, CEO of the Pomellato Group, said in a statement. “It honors the artisans whose mastery gives form to each creation, and the women who wear Pomellato: intelligent, independent spirits who express themselves with freedom.”Play Puzzles & Games on ForbesCurated by Alba Cappellieri, professor and head of jewelry design at the Politecnico di Milano, the exhibition presents Pomellato's history through five defining themes: style, craftsmanship, color, image and its relationship with women.The 1991 Tonda, Tondella and Tondellisma Rings by PomellatoPomellato“From sculptural chains to unconventional gemstones and settings, Pomellato has continuously expanded the expressive possibilities of jewelry, speaking to women with authenticity,” Cappellieri said. “Photography became the ideal language through which the jewel could speak of identity and the evolving values of modern society.”The exhibition also highlights Pomellato’s collaborations with some of fashion photography’s most influential names, including Gian Paolo Barbieri, Helmut Newton, Albert Watson, Horst P. Horst, Herb Ritts, Anthony Armstrong-Jones (Lord Snowdon), Javier Vallhonrat and Michael Comte, whose campaigns reflected changing perceptions of femininity over three decades.A 1990 Pomellato advertisement photographed by Herb Ritts PomellatoAmong the milestones featured is the introduction of the Nudo collection, which helped redefine the use of colored gemstones in contemporary jewelry. Cushion-shaped gems cut with 57 asymmetrical facets are set without visible prongs, creating the illusion that each stone is floating above its mount.The exhibition concludes with “Pomellato for Women,” featuring advertising campaigns starring ambassadors including Jane Fonda, Kerry Washington, Michelle Monaghan, Amina Seck and Joey King.Stile Libero High JewelryCoinciding with the exhibition, Pomellato introduced Stile Libero, a new high jewelry collection featuring more than 60 one-of-a-kind creations organized into three themes—Visionary Colors, Magnetic Gold and Hypnotic Shadows. Together, the chapters reinterpret the house’s signatures through vibrant gemstones, sculptural goldwork and exceptional craftsmanship.“Pomellato Stile Libero embodies high jewelry in the free-spirited Pomellato way,” Belli said. “Each creation holds precious stories of creativity and craftsmanship: jewels that unite distant worlds and push creative boundaries, emblems of beauty and wonder, conceived for women who are free, strong and authentic protagonists of their own style.”Visionary ColorsThe first chapter celebrates Pomellato's distinctive use of colored gemstones through several standout creations.Mandala Chromia features a gold medallion necklace centered on a hand-pierced openwork motif set with 99 multicolored sapphires and framed by brown diamonds.Pomellato Stile Libero high jewelry Mandala Chromia necklace PomellatoDrops of Paraíba pairs a semi-rigid choker with matching earrings, showcasing 21 pear-shaped Paraíba-type tourmalines totaling more than 20 carats. The stones are arranged in an irregular composition intended to evoke falling droplets of water.Serti Libre presents three statement rings that reinterpret the maison's signature setting technique, combining Mandarin garnets, pink spinels and tsavorites with baguette-cut diamonds and asymmetrical pavé settings.Completing the chapter is Rainbow Supreme, a rivière necklace featuring 68 round tourmalines totaling more than 157 carats in a graduated spectrum of pink, yellow and green hues.Magnetic GoldThe second chapter focuses on Pomellato’s mastery of gold, pairing sculptural forms with white and brown diamonds.Among the highlights is Attache, a transformable rose gold chain necklace inspired by a design from the 1990s. Featuring links of varying sizes accented with white and brown diamonds, the centerpiece allows the necklace to be worn three different ways.Pomellato Stile Libero high jewelry Ray of Light ringPomellatoByzantine showcases nine emerald-cut brown diamonds set in custom rose-gold bezels whose softly contoured surfaces emphasize the warmth of the stones while creating a flexible, articulated necklace.Note di Luce reimagines the classic solitaire through a suite of seven rings featuring unexpected diamond colors, distinctive cuts and bespoke settings.Audace transforms Pomellato's Gourmette chain, first introduced in 1972, into a high jewelry necklace through a modular rose gold construction accented by fancy-cut white and brown diamonds.Hypnotic ShadowsThe final chapter explores the maison's mastery of hand-pierced openwork gold, a technique requiring hundreds of hours of meticulous craftsmanship.Its centerpiece, the Arabesque necklace, reinterprets a traditional technique developed by French artisan Sara Bran. Crafted in rose gold, the lace-like design is illuminated by 18 fancy rose-cut diamonds and required approximately 1,450 hours to complete. Matching white gold manchette bracelets complete the suite.Pomellato Stile Libero high jewelry Arabesque Necklace in rose gold and diamondsPomellatoA second series extends the openwork concept into flowing, chain-inspired forms that create an airy sense of movement.The chapter concludes with the Ipnotica rings and earrings, whose rounded, asymmetrical forms are set with white and brown diamonds to create a sculptural bas-relief effect. Companion pieces in black titanium and white diamonds introduce a contemporary contrast while reinforcing the collection's emphasis on innovative materials and craftsmanship.