Tinned fish has had a remarkable makeover in recent years. Once derided, largely confined to a couple of emergency cans at the back of the cupboard and a four-pack of tuna for tuna mayo, it is now almost a status symbol.
A big shift happened during the pandemic, when social media accounts began espousing alluring tins, largely from Spain and Portugal, with beautiful packaging and even better produce inside.
And the bubble is yet to burst. Many supermarkets now stock a range of premium tins, as well as their own brands – often just as good. A number of homegrown options using British fish have also emerged. At Waitrose, sales of tinned fish have risen by 11 per cent over the past year, while at Ocado they are up 23 per cent (searches for “tinned tuna in brine” are up a remarkable 2,242 per cent).
According to Joe Sharkey, tinned fish buyer at Waitrose, tinned fish is now viewed as an “affordable luxury”. Driven partly by social media and “the desire to create affordable, delicious meals, demand for tinned fish is certainly on the up”, he says. Other factors for increased popularity include their being seen as a high-quality protein and simplicity – open a tin, eat straight from the tin, throw away the tin.
