Much as I love bouillabaisse, I’ve never come across rascasse, the spiny Mediterranean rockfish that’s the backbone of Marseille’s signature dish, outside its homeland. Bourride, another southern French fish stew, is a simpler affair that’s much easier to recreate here. Enriched with garlicky aïoli, it’s a lovely thing for a summer’s evening, and can be prepared ahead up to the end of step 7.Prep 20 min

Cook 1 hr 10 minServes 2, generouslyFor the aïoli 1 garlic clove

1 pinch coarse salt

1 egg yolk

75ml light olive oil, or neutral oil30ml extra-virgin olive oil1 tsp lemon juice, or to tasteSalt and white pepper, to tasteFor the stew6 sustainably sourced raw shell-on prawns (optional)2 small leeks