For centuries, Kashmir’s pashmina story was popularised by intricate and exquisite paisley, cypress and flower bouquet imprints. Zubair Kirmani, a Srinagar-born fashion designer, has changed the format by introducing Islamic calligraphy on pashmina shawls. From a popular wearable, the pashmina is writing a new story as wall decor.
“Kashmir has always been a land of extraordinary craftsmanship. The problem is not the lack of heritage; it is repetition. When craft remains unchanged for decades, it slowly becomes predictable, and predictability weakens its global relevance,” said the 46-year-old Kirmani, whose brand ‘Bounipun’ has already earned the spotlight on the runways of Lakme Fashion Week, Wills Lifestyle India and other platforms.
He added, “If design stagnates and value drops, incomes shrink and the younger generation loses interest in continuing the craft. Evolution is therefore not just a creative choice; it is essential for sustaining livelihoods and ensuring that this heritage remains economically viable for future generations.”
Mr. Kirmani showcased his new series, ‘Karahul’, at the India Islamic Centre, New Delhi, on Sunday. In this series, the delicate pashmina is embossed with Kufic calligraphy highlighting verses from the Koran. Kufic calligraphy is a complex play of angular, vertical, horizontal and regular lines that create Arabic letters and transform them into Koranic verses.
