Every month, several thousand visitors descend on the town of Caiazzo (population c5,000), an hour north-east of Naples. They make their way down the cobbled side street that leads to Pepe In Grani pizzeria to try what is widely regarded as the greatest pizza in the world.
The most famous pizza on the menu is the Margherita Sbagliata (“Margherita Gone Wrong”), which resembles a Mondrian painting. It requires baking the dough with mozzarella only and piping on tomato purée and basil reduction in strips and dots once cooked. Among other novelties are tasting menus filled with deep-fried cone pizzas, sweet pizzas and “healthy” pizzas served with raw vegetables and dressing designed to provide a balance of macronutrients and endorsed by the Italian AIRC Foundation for Cancer Research.
Franco Pepe working on his dough in the Pepe In Grani kitchen © Adam Bricker and Brian McGinn
The whole town shuts down on Monday because we shut on Monday
The man behind Pepe In Grani is Franco Pepe, a third-generation pizzaiolo whose innovations have earned him the respect of the world’s leading chefs. Alain Ducasse and Ana Roš are among those who have sat in awe at his chef’s table. Spread over several floors of a restored townhouse, the pizzeria is home to two traditional Neapolitan domed pizza ovens. During service, Pepe is found greeting guests and having his picture taken before he retreats to his living quarters, located in the same building.
