For international visitors, if Modena rings a bell, it tends to be for one reason: balsamic vinegar. The city is just 40 kilometres from Italy’s gastronomic capital, Bologna, but it has an enviable food scene of its own, and liquid “black gold” is its culinary calling card.
Yet, the cuisine isn’t the only reason to bypass Bologna in favour of its neighbour to the northwest. You’ll find much smaller crowds in Modena, which, at about half the size of Bologna, attracted 403,070 tourists in 2025 – a modest figure compared to latter’s more than two million. And the tourist tax for a four-star hotel in the smaller city is €4 per person per night, compared with up to €7 in Bologna, where the rate varies according to the price of the room.
What Modena lacks in size, it more than makes up for in heritage. Cutting diagonally across the city, Via Emilia is a Roman-era road lined with quaint boutiques and speciality food shops. Sprawling out from Via Emilia, the historic district is dotted with old buildings, painted in warm ochre and brick-red tones. A vibrant but unchaotic place, Modena is well cared for, with residents who appreciate visitors eager to learn more about their town.
Shorts
Joining the locals moving unhurriedly beneath elegant porticoes, I stroll over to Galleria Estense, which houses the art collection of one of the most prominent and longest-lived noble dynasties in the country: the Dukes of Este. One of Italy’s oldest and most significant galleries, Galleria Estense holds a remarkable collection of art, ceramics and musical instruments. The white walls are hung with paintings from the 14th to 18th centuries, including works by artists such as Correggio, Tintoretto and Velázquez.
