Do you know the two countries you can reach by ferry from Sicily? Even boat travel geeks might struggle with this one. One is Tunisia - reachable from Palermo in 11 hours (in the six years I’ve lived in Sicily, I’ve still only known one person who’s ever taken that boat). The other is Malta.
Luckily for me, the most frequent ferry to Malta goes from my local town. Pozzallo to Valletta is a pleasant 1hr45 minute journey, on a catamaran mostly staffed, curiously, by people from the Philippines. With three or four crossings a day, Malta is quicker to reach than most parts of mainland Italy, so I’ve visited regularly during the six years I’ve been living on Sicily’s south-east coast.
On most of my trips, I’ve stayed in Valletta, Malta’s capital. An ancient fortified city full of gorgeous architecture, buzzy outdoor bars and restaurants and rooftop views to die for.
What does all of that gorgeousness mean? You guessed it - it’s packed with tourists.
Spend time in Valletta and you'll understand why you’re often told Malta is one of the most densely populated countries in the world. During the summer high season, it’s hard to move on Valletta’s cobbled streets. While there’s plenty of good shopping, it’s hard to enjoy it when you’re in fear of, at best, being ripped off for tourist tat and, at worst, being pickpocketed.







