A sprawling metropolis that is home to almost half of Mongolia’s population, Ulaanbaatar is not the most tourist-friendly city in the world. Mongolia’s capital is international travellers’ first point of entry into the country before they move on to the deserts, grasslands, steppes and mountains that make the nation such a popular destination among nature lovers.Most visitors to Mongolia are happy to spend a couple of days in town or skip the place altogether, but Ulaanbaatar still offers pockets of charm, especially in the summer months, when mild temperatures allow for leisurely walks in a place that is not necessarily pedestrian-friendly and lacks an easy-to-navigate transportation system.Where to stayAn executive suite at Shangri-La Ulaanbaatar. Photo: HandoutFor a city of such scale, Ulaanbaatar has surprisingly few high-end hotels. The most established and the only true luxury property is Shangri-La Ulaanbaatar, located in the heart of town and connected to Shangri-La Centre, a modern mall home to a few luxury boutiques, a great gym with an Olympic-size pool that hotel guests can access freely and plenty of eateries. Spanning 21 floors of a modern skyscraper, the hotel is popular with business travellers and tourists seeking convenience and all the trappings of a five-star property. Its well-appointed 290 guest rooms, familiar to those who have stayed at other Shangri-La properties in Asia, offer expansive views of the city’s concrete jungle and the surrounding mountains.Eateries include Hutong Restaurant and Naadam Bar & Restaurant, which come alive at night, when seemingly every expat and tourist in town shows up to enjoy a variety of dishes and drinks in a fun, happening atmosphere.What to eatKhuushuur are deep-fried dough pastries filled with beef. Photo: HandoutHeavy on the meat, Mongolian cuisine relies on the country’s traditional herding culture. Mutton, lamb, beef and goat are popular on menus, as are hearty starches like savoury pastries and dumplings.For a great introduction to the local food, the Mongolian selection at Naadam Bar & Restaurant offers favourites such as beef or lamb tsuivan – chewy noodles with cucumber, carrot, onion and garlic – and mama’s khuushuur, deep-fried dough pastries filled with beef. More adventurous types can also order pan-fried beef liver with onion and mutton tail.Tsuivan, noodles with beef or lamb, is another popular dish. Photo: HandoutThe nearby Choijin Temple Restaurant is a great option for Mediterranean dishes with a Mongolian twist. For something more exclusive, those with the right connections can book a table at Highland Park, a private members’ club located at the foot of Bogd Mountain and housed in a sleek chalet with beautiful views of the city.What to do