Even as we entered the dog days of summer, the world of high horology kept ticking. Phillips announced a very rare F.P. Journe for auction later this year; celebrities showed off their watches at Wimbledon; and brands rolled out new pieces in summery blues and titanium to make sure you are taken care of on your holiday.Meanwhile, the industry saw a major shake-up as a former Audemars Piguet CEO unveiled a new brand, De Bethune appointed a new CEO, and US tariffs prompted small businesses – including a watch retailer – to take legal action to keep prices reasonable.Pre-production F.P. Journe up for biddingPhillips is offering a rare, pristine pre-production F.P. Journe dating from a year before the model’s 2000 launch, in its November auction. Photo: HandoutPhillips shows no signs of slowing down on what has been a banner year for its watch auctions. Building on the momentum for independent pieces after record-breaking sales in May, the auction house announced in July that the Geneva Watch Auction: XXIV in November will feature an extremely rare, pre-production F.P. Journe Chronomètre à Résonance. According to Phillips, the original owner acquired the watch in 1999, a year before the model’s official launch, and it is completely fresh to market.This piece is also one of just 10 pre-production examples from the independent watchmaker. Its serial number, 022/99R, suggests it was the first commercially available version of the piece, as numbers 1-20 were for original supporters of the earlier Tourbillon Souverain Souscription, and 21 was a model for François-Paul Journe to present personally to clients and retailers.François-Henry Bennahmias’ N3W5; De Bethune’s new CEOAlmost a year after François-Henry Bennahmias’ announcement that he had founded The Honourable Merchants Group, the former Audemars Piguet CEO announced on July 1 that he would also launch the watch brand N3W5 – pronounced “news” – using private funding under his group, according to Hodinkee, Robb Report and Business of Fashion.“In an industry increasingly defined by logos and trends, we want to focus on the essential … the silent expertise, the creative decisions and the individuals whose contributions shape exceptional objects,” Bennahmias wrote on the brand’s website.De Bethune founder and watchmaker Denis Flageollet at The 1916 Company’s showcase of De Bethune watches in Central. Photo: HandoutThe debut of N3W5 came after late-stage talks to “invest in or buy control of Swiss independent brand De Bethune” fell through, according to Hodinkee. Founded by watchmaking legend Denis Flageollet, De Bethune is known for producing bold haute horlogerie pieces with its signature heat-blued titanium technique and unique lugs. The brand, primarily controlled by The 1916 Company, confirmed in July that Antoine Pin, former CEO of Tag Heuer, would take the helm ahead of its 25th anniversary next year.New releases
5 top watch moments in July, from Wimbledon wrist game to an F.P. Journe for auction
Former Audemars Piguet CEO unveils a new brand, IWC and Longines lean into blue dials, and a US watch retailer sues over Trump tariffs on Swiss imports.







