This is an episode of the Glossy Fashion Podcast, which features candid conversations about how today’s trends are shaping the future of the fashion industry. More from the series →Copenhagen Fashion Week is celebrating its 20th anniversary this week, marking two decades in which it has grown from a regional trade event into what is often described as fashion’s unofficial fifth city.

Running from August 3-7, the spring 2027 edition includes 34 shows and presentations spanning established Scandinavian labels, emerging designers and international guests, including New York-based Collina Strada and Lagos Fashion Week guest Iamisigo.

But the anniversary arrives at a complicated point. Copenhagen has become highly effective at launching brands internationally. The problem is that many of its greatest success stories eventually move on.

Ganni and Cecilie Bahnsen now show in Paris, while Heliot Emil has also shifted its runway focus there. Saks Potts and (Di)vision, two labels that helped define Copenhagen’s recent creative identity, have closed. Ganni remains connected to the city this season through a collaboration with emerging designer Stem, but it no longer anchors the schedule with the major shows that once helped define the week.