Milan might have the illustrious leather goods houses, and Paris the couture and buzzy celebrity sightings, but when it comes to championing emerging, sustainable talent, model diversity and street style, Copenhagen is in a league of its own. The SS26 season, which saw the return of Danish stalwart Cecilie Bahnsen and LVMH Prize semi-finalist Nicklas Skovgaard as well as a slew of exciting debuts – was no exception.

Brat summer is dead, long live rat summer

Anne Sofie Madsen SS26 © James Cochrane

In one of the most talked-about shows of the season, Anne Sofie Madsen – who worked with John Galliano and Alexander McQueen before launching her eponymous label in 2011 – returned with a new co-creative director, Caroline Clante, having put her brand on hiatus eight years ago. The show, which took its title from Sofia Coppola’s cult short Lick the Star, was an ode to adolescent archetypes, with glamorous party dresses and slogan T-shirts paired with colourful tights and shiny hot pants. The star, though, was the squishy rat clutch bag, which came in a variety of metallic shades. Could it be the next It-girl accessory after JW Anderson’s pigeon clutch?

Polka dots are the new stripes