The signature makdous is flying off the menu at Mila’s limited-time Rosewood Hong Kong residency – a fact that surprised even the man who created it. Marc Mahfouz, chef de cuisine of the Michelin-recognised Qatar restaurant, didn’t expect a vegan dish to be the top seller. The stuffed baby aubergine, draped in tarator sauce and topped with walnuts and pomegranate, is entirely plant-based. But Hong Kong diners, he has learned, are full of surprises.“This is the ninth city I’ve cooked in,” says the Lebanese chef, who is swapping Rosewood Doha for Hong Kong until August 9. “And diners here are the quickest to adapt to my food.”Hong Kong has embraced him with an openness he hasn’t seen elsewhere. Within days of opening last week, guests were already rebooking. “The people here are wonderful and very welcoming,” he shares. “The quality of food is high, the competition is high, and diners are genuinely curious about me and the food I bring to the table.”Marc Mahfouz, chef de cuisine of Mila at Rosewood Doha. Photo: HandoutLevantine food has gained international traction, but in Hong Kong it is still largely relegated to small, low-profile restaurants dotted around Kowloon, with only Francis and Maison Libanaise providing visibility in Central.Mahfouz is acutely aware that his homeland often appears on people’s feeds for its turmoil rather than its culinary riches. When he was studying in France, he would frequently call his mother to check on the reality at home after reading headlines about Middle Eastern conflicts. “We never truly had peace in my country,” Mahfouz says. “I lived through 10 to 15 types of war growing up. We learn to adapt.”That feeling is etched permanently on the inside of his forearm in the shape of a tattooed cedar tree, the same emblem that adorns the Lebanese flag. It is a symbol of Phoenicia, a nod to Levant’s ancient seafarers who built their boats from cedar and spread their culture across the Mediterranean. “We’re like phoenixes,” he says. “We adapt quickly to new environments.”The shankleesh salad features aged shankleesh cheese, seasonal herbs, tomato and a saffron-citrus dressing. Photo: HandoutMahfouz hopes his homeland will soon stop being defined by conflict. “Beyond any headlines, there are people, stories, flavours and traditions that deserve to be understood and celebrated. The Middle East is a place of family recipes, long meals, generous hosts, beautiful produce and a very emotional connection to food.”