In this week’s Luxury Briefing, international reporter Zofia Zwieglinska speaks to executives at Mejuri and Material Good about designing luxury jewelry for the new luxury class and stress-testing collections on courts like Wimbledon. Also, Mytheresa’s president of North America discusses its new mobile shopping concept. For tips or comments, email me at zofia@glossy.co.When Russian tennis player Mirra Andreeva’s bracelet snapped during play on Wimbledon’s Centre Court on Wednesday, the pearls scattered across the grass and briefly stopped the match. Under tennis’s hindrance rules, a player is not entitled to replay a point because her own jewelry breaks. A let may be called if the opponent immediately stops because the fallen item creates a hazard, after which play can pause briefly to clear the court.

The moment echoed one of jewelry’s best-known origin stories: American tennis player Chris Evert pausing a U.S. Open match after losing her George Bedewi diamond line bracelet, which led to the style becoming known as the “tennis bracelet.”

Evert helped create the tennis-bracelet category without initially commercializing the moment herself. It was not until 2022, more than four decades later, that she launched an official 13-piece diamond collection with Monica Rich Kosann called The Tennis Bracelet-CE Collection.