In the vermuterias of downtown Palma, locals talk of little other than ‘totality’. That is, the moment on 12 August, just after 8.30 in the evening, when the sun will almost be touching the horizon and there will be a total eclipse. It will be the first time since 1905 that Mallorcans have been able to witness a total eclipse at home, and they won’t get the chance again until 2180. You can see why it is dominating discussion in la hora del vermut.

It would certainly elevate a negroni, but you fear wasting its potential ina cocktail

The vermouth hour was once a custom in most Spanish towns. It’s the moment after midday but before lunch, when one can enjoy a break from the heat of the day with a glass of the fortified wine. It went into abeyance as the country’s economy opened and new drinks became more popular.

Now there are some who are trying to resurrect the tradition, not just in Spain but across the Mediterranean. La Rosa, which is a short stroll from the centre of Palma, is one such example of a rebounding vermuteria. Vermouth is very much back.

Of course, vermouth’s inclusion in cocktails means that the international market for it has never disappeared. Almost every home bar in the Home Counties will have a bottle of it somewhere, usually Cinzano or Martini. Its integral role in many cocktails means that outside of the Mediterranean it is, alas, mostly only appreciated as an ingredient.