Alexandra CarltonJun 10, 2026 – 5.00amThe male lion, with his bristling mane and sleek, sand-coloured pelt, is so close I can smell him; a thick, musky mix of testosterone and fresh kill. If that wasn’t startling enough, he’s stalking through the undergrowth straight towards our open-sided four-wheel-drive, apparently aiming for the exact spot where I’m sitting.With rising panic, I realise I can see every sinew and muscle rippling in his powerful shoulders, every twitch of his nose as he sniffs for prey. Later, when I listen back to the video on my phone, I can hear my own nervous squeak. Then, our guide, Lena, swerves the car out of the lion’s path. The giant cat startles slightly but continues padding his way through the golden grasslands, largely unperturbed by our presence.Subscribe to gift this articleGift 5 articles to anyone you choose each month when you subscribe.Subscribe nowAlready a subscriber? Fetching latest articles