From peak-bagging to thru-hiking, Americans have turned traversing land into personal milestones. This wilderness ranger and Indigenous writer has witnessed it firsthand

Këmituxwe Éhènta Wehikiyànkw

You are walking in our old homeland

After spending 12 years backpacking some of America’s wildest trails as a wilderness ranger for the US Forest Service – and then losing that job to politics – last spring I set out for the Appalachian Trail (AT), the longest hiking-only footpath in the world.

My heart was heavy with grief from recent losses in my family, and I hoped that spending some time in my homeland’s ecology might bring some healing.