Chopard New L.U.C 1860 ChronometerChopardA steady stream of early releases and teasers is already shaping the early narrative of this year’s Watches and Wonders, which opened in Geneva on Tuesday. The fair has been defined by thoughtful evolutions of established icons, pairing mechanical refinement with nuanced aesthetic updates.Chopard L.U.C 1860 ChronometerChopard has introduced a new interpretation of its original L.U.C 1860 to mark the 30th anniversary of its manufacture in Fleurier, Switzerland. The latest edition preserves the spirit of the original while incorporating three decades of technical progress.Like its predecessor, the watch features a 36.5mm case, now crafted in Chopard’s proprietary Lucent Steel. It is distinguished by an Areuse Blue dial—named after the nearby Areuse River in the Val-de-Travers, known for its shifting deep blue tones.The 18k white gold dial is hand-guilloché with a sunburst pattern executed on a vintage lathe. Additional guilloché rings add depth and play with light, while a satin-brushed chapter ring, polished white gold chevron hour markers and Dauphine hands complete the design. A small seconds display at 6 o’clock reinforces the dial’s symmetry. The watch is paired with a gray grained calfskin strap.Powering the piece is the L.U.C Caliber 96.40-L, an evolution of the first movement developed by Chopard Manufacture in 1996. Just 3.30mm thick, the automatic caliber features a 22k gold micro-rotor and twin stacked barrels—a hallmark of Chopard Twin technology—delivering a 65-hour power reserve. It is COSC-certified and includes a stop-seconds function and swan’s neck regulator for fine adjustment.MORE FOR YOUNomos Tangente Neomatik 38 Update in goldNomos GlashütteNomos Tangente Neomatik 38 UpdateNomos Glashütte introduces new versions of its Tangente Neomatik Update, now in a more compact 38.5mm case and, for the first time, in gold.The defining feature remains the brand’s patented Update ring date, which displays the full month around the dial, with the current day marked by two red indicators. First introduced in 2018, the complication earned a GPHG award and remains one of Nomos’ most distinctive innovations.The date is integrated into the in-house DUW 6101 automatic caliber. To maintain the movement’s slim profile, the date ring is positioned around the periphery and has been adapted for the smaller case size.With the introduction of the Tangente Neomatik 38 Update in gold, the display takes on a more formal character, offering a dressier interpretation of the model. The DUW 6101 features the NOMOS swing system, identifiable by its blue balance spring.Pequignet Royale Paris Chrono with red subdialsPequignetPequignet Royale Paris ChronoFrench brand Pequignet introduces its first in-house chronograph, the Royale Paris Chrono, expanding its Royale Paris collection.The watch retains the collection’s defining aesthetic, including its attached lugs, which create a distinctive architectural profile. A concave groove along the dial’s perimeter adds a sculptural quality.The dial plays with texture and depth: a grained central surface contrasts with two recessed concentric rings, the outermost of which incorporates a tachymeter scale. Two large azure-finished counters provide a balanced horizontal layout.The chronograph is powered by a movement based on Pequignet’s in-house Caliber Initial, developed in collaboration with a Swiss complication specialist. It uses a cam-actuated system, chosen for its durability and shock resistance compared to column-wheel constructions.The display includes small seconds at 3 o’clock and a 30-minute counter at 9 o’clock. An offset stem system aligns the crown and pushers for improved ergonomics.Despite its complexity, the movement maintains a relatively slim profile. Decorative finishes include skeletonized bridges, perlage, satin brushing and diamond-cut bevels, while the openworked rotor reveals a raised fleur-de-lys motif.Roger Dubuis Excalibur Biretrograde Perpetual CalendarRoger DubuisRoger Dubuis Excalibur Biretrograde Perpetual CalendarAmong Roger Dubuis’ key launches is the Excalibur Biretrograde Perpetual Calendar, which combines the brand’s signature biretrograde display with a perpetual calendar complication.The jumping day and date indications sweep across elliptical scales before snapping back to their starting points. This display traces back to a system co-patented in 1989 by Roger Dubuis and Jean-Marc Wiederrecht and first used in the brand’s watches in 1996.The new RD850 automatic caliber comprises 435 components and offers a 60-hour power reserve. A newly added month corrector simplifies adjustment and reduces wear on the mechanism.An astronomical moonphase at 6 o’clock tracks the lunar cycle with high precision and will remain accurate for 122 years before requiring a correction.The movement features 19 different finishing techniques, earning the Poinçon de Genève. These include sharply executed inner angles on the retrograde bridges.The openworked dial reveals a complex, multi-layered construction in a new Astral Blue colorway, incorporating mother-of-pearl elements, aventurine and a domed pink gold moon.The watch is housed in a 40mm pink gold case and paired with an Astral Blue calfskin strap.Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual Time Cardinal Points in blueVacheron ConstantinVacheron Constantin Overseas Dual Time ‘Cardinal Points’This new Overseas Dual Time model is presented in a 41mm titanium case with an integrated bracelet and interchangeable clasp system.A matte anthracite finish on the bezel, crown and pusher ring contrasts subtly with the titanium, emphasizing the collection’s Maltese Cross-inspired bezel design.The watch is offered in four dial colors, each representing a cardinal direction and landscape: white (North), brown (South), green (West) blue (East).The dial combines multiple finishes, including a grained center, snailed date counter, satin-brushed minutes track and lacquered seconds track. Orange accents highlight the second time zone and day/night indication.The in-house Caliber 5110 DT/3 powers the watch, featuring a dual-time display with an arrow-tipped hand for home time and a synchronized pointer date at 6 o’clock. Adjustments are made via the crown and a dedicated pusher.A NAC-treated movement with Côtes de Genève and perlage is visible through the caseback, along with a 22k gold rotor engraved with the Overseas wind rose motif.This edition is a boutique exclusive.Zenith GFJ Bloodstone ZenithZenith G.F.J. In BloodstoneFor the second consecutive year, Zenith has released a new G.F.J. model. Revived by the watch brand in 2025, this watch and caliber was awarded a GPHG Chronometry Prize in the same year. This new version is available in a limited edition of 161 pieces with a yellow gold case and a bloodstone dial.The watch is powered by a modern reinterpretation of the historic Calibre 135, originally produced from 1949 to 1962. While preserving its architecture—including a large balance wheel and 18,000 vph frequency—the updated movement incorporates modern materials and enhancements.For example, the power reserve is increased to 72 hours, and the gear train is optimized for efficiency. The balance features regulation screws and a Breguet overcoil, while a stop-seconds mechanism allows precise setting. The movement is COSC-certified and regulated to ±2 seconds per day.The 39.5mm yellow gold case retains mid-century design cues, including a stepped bezel and curved lugs.The dial combines materials and textures: a bloodstone center with natural inclusions, a mother-of-pearl small seconds counter and a peripheral guilloché ring inspired by the brickwork of Zenith’s manufacture in Le Locle.The movement is finished with Côtes de Genève hand-chamfering and a dark ruthenium treatment accented by gold-toned engravings.