These are the new titles for your kitchen shelf – plus a classic to dust off
Nandên: Recipes from my Kurdish Kitchen by Pary Baban
Because the Kurdish people are spread across several national boundaries, their food tends to get lumped in with that of the Turkish, Iranian, Syrian and other communities with which they coexist. Indeed, when Pary Baban opened her first London restaurant she was told by a fellow Kurd she was “brave” to advertise it as Kurdish, given how few people would be familiar with the concept. “If I don’t do it,” she recalls saying then, “and you don’t do it, then who will do it, and when will we put our food on the map?” For those who can’t make it to Nandine (which, like Nandên, means kitchen in Kurdish) in Camberwell to learn from her own hands, this book serves as an admirable guide through a world of slow-cooked lamb and vegetable stews, fluffy breads and cooling yoghurt soups, as well as a wealth of stories from her childhood surrounded by the peaks of Iraqi Kurdistan. Driven out by Saddam Hussein’s government in the 1980s, she and her family fled east into the hills, staying with relatives, farmers, shepherds and foragers, in mountain villages – a journey that ignited Baban’s interest in recording her people’s traditions at a time when it seemed they could easily be lost for good. She began scribbling down their recipes in notebooks: and almost 40 years of cooking later, Nandên is the very fine end result.
