This former industrial quartier is now getting noticed for its community-focused art spaces, lively local bars and inexpensive north African food
On a hill that rises up between Belleville’s Chinatown and Père-Lachaise cemetery, Ménilmontant was once a rural hamlet with vines and farms, before becoming more industrial in the 19th century. The quartier boasts a united, colourful community whose working-class Parisian roots have long been integrated with a strong north African diaspora. Bohemian, arty and socially committed, it remains off the tourist trail with no notable museums or monuments; it’s just a genuinely Parisian neighbourhood. The locals were bemused to learn that Time Out made Ménilmontant one of its World’s Coolest Neighbourhoods for 2025, though tourists who do venture here to discover a glimpse of a fast-disappearing Paris are sure of a warm welcome.
Eating out in Ménilmontant is inexpensive, hearty, multi-ethnic and vegetarian-friendly. My favourite discovery is La Cantine des Hommes Libres, a retro bistrot where the dish of the day costs €11.50 for blanquette de veau, boeuf bourguignon or Algerian specialities such as tikourbabine, while the couscous is the best I have ever tasted. A happy hour glass of organic wine costs just €2. The owner, Monsieur Abdelkrim, created the Cantine 20 years ago, “to bring the culture of Algeria to Paris, initially through our cuisine, serving traditional dishes from our bleds (rural villages) that were unknown to French people. Over the years, the bistrot has became an unofficial cultural centre to discover the music, art and poetry of our Berbère people.”
