Poor weather couldn’t spoil my high-altitude walking trip amid these stunning peaks, especially with delicious, hearty Tyrolean cuisine to keep me going
W
hen you come to the Dolomites for winter walking, it’s with the intention of having spellbinding snow-streaked peaks that are unlike anything else in the Alps as your constant companion. But with impenetrable cloud and heavy rain forecast, it was hard not to feel deflated.
Then again, this was Italy, where it’s easy to make the best of things whatever the weather. And the 3 Zinnen Dolomites ski resort and nature park – right on Italy’s border with Austria, about two-and-a-half hours north of Venice, is always charming, with the usual jumble of cultures you see in South Tyrol. Part Italian, it’s more Austrian thanks to the legacy of the Habsburgs, who ruled this part of Italy until 1918. Hence most places have an Austrian and an Italian name, 3 Zinnen or Tre Cime (meaning three peaks) being a case in point. It’s the home of Ladin, an ancient Romance language, too.
Of the five villages that make up 3 Zinnen Dolomites, I was staying in the largest, San Candido (or Innichen), which looked as Austrian as could be – onion-domed church and pastel-coloured, richly detailed houses you would see in Salzburg. Even under leaden skies, it was a pretty place, its pedestrianised centre filled with classy shops selling cashmere and leather goods and, happily, an impressive number of delis stocking high-quality (but not necessarily high-priced) regional food. The sort that makes you want to move to Italy.
