I
t’s an old adage that a piece of jewellery should look as good from the back as it does from the front. Design that is considered from all angles — and that utilises all areas of a piece — is what separates the great from the average. A new tranche of cocktail rings that launched this year adheres very much to this rule. Forget a central hero stone on a plain gold band — details now extend down and around the finger with gem-setting, unusual materials and an attention to detail that deliver both volume and impact. It is a new maximalism and an unapologetic style that sweeps aside any ideas of quiet luxury or pared back design. Tiffany & Co are doubling down on this style of ring, with their continued fanfare of designs inspired by the great Jean Schlumberger who believed more-is-more. Cartier are following a similar oeuvre championing their ability to create jewels that confidently fill space — something that’s always seemed easy for them. Likewise, Buccellati keep producing timeless yet nostalgic rings. There’s a transportive escapism to it all — and right now, is there any wonder?
Inspiration for this Boodles ring comes from the colours and patterns of Maasai textiles and jewellery. The central spessartite garnet was chosen to reflect traditional red robes or shùká.
