The ancient trees and 1,000-year-old techniques that go into a cup of Puer tea

In the Unesco-recognised Jingmai region, the next generation of Puer growers is propelling an ancient cultural treasure into the modern era

Deep in the Jingmai Mountain forests, in China’s Yunnan province, clouds of steam rise from a huge wok in which Yu Jing is roasting tea leaves. That morning, she had climbed high into a tree, pinched off some large leaves then, back on the ground, spread them on a reed mat to lose moisture and wither. Now, as Yu roasts the tea leaves, the nutty aroma fills her home, becoming more intense as the tea warms.

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