Anthony Bourdain needed rules as much as he hated them. The kitchen was perfect for him

The myth of Anthony Bourdain: how the bad boy chef became a hero to boozehounds and bullies

The author of Kitchen Confidential has inspired a new movie, Tony, about his days as a dishwasher. But do today’s chefs still admire his self-sabotaging rock’n’roll spirit – or have they outgrown it?