DUBAI: Ask nearly any Jordanian over the age of 40 about Damascus and you are likely to be met with a nostalgic tale of days gone by when weekend trips to the old city were as common as those to the Dead Sea. Such memories were confined to the pits of nostalgia by the onset of the Syrian civil war, which turned the once-famed journey into an ordeal of derelict rest stops, militia checkpoints, sudden closures and the possibility of violence. However, over the last year, tour buses have reappeared on the centuries-old trade route.