Current sectionFoodShare to FacebookShare to XArticle printing is available to subscribers onlyPrint in a simple, ad-free formatSubscribeComments: Zen reading is available to subscribers onlyAd-free and in a comfortable reading formatSubscribeGefilte fish at Tel Aviv's Keton restaurant, part of a family, urban and culinary mosaic. Credit: David BacharAshkenazi restaurants are disappearing from Israel, but Keton has survived for 81 years by serving the same Eastern European dishes, and the memories that come with them. The place where people come to cry over a plate of jellied calf's foot01:24 PM • August 31 2026 IDTIt's 3 P.M. on a Wednesday in August. Tel Aviv is melting in 33-degree heat, but there isn't a single free table inside Keton. I'm sent to sit outside, in front of a white fan that succeeds mainly in pushing the hot air from side to side. A moment later, Orna Raskin emerges from the kitchen carrying a steaming plate of cholent and a glass of apricot soda.In the NewsGefilte Fish Has Never Been Hotter: This Tiny Tel Aviv Eatery Is a Groyse MetsieSpain's Sanchez: Israel Amplified Disinformation Over Ceuta Migrant CrisisIDF Soldiers Guard West Bank Settler Raid, Shoot Four Palestinians, Reports SayFor Israeli Vets With PTSD, Soccer Is a Friendly Game AgainWeeks Into West Bank Siege, Police Seek Warrants for Settlers Involved in AttackRemembering and rebuilding two years laterICYMIHasan Piker Talks Hamas, anti-Zionism and Why Americans Are Fed Up With Israel'Israel Is Sending Militias to Commit War Crimes – and I Have to Protect Them'Israeli Court Acquits Man of Assaulting Nun in Jerusalem's Old CityPoll: Likud Sinks to 19 Seats as New Right-wing Party Falls Below ThresholdJewish Space Lasers? Israel Wants 'Rods From God'Ben-Gvir's Ambush Shook Netanyahu – and Unleashed a War for Right-wing Votes