Nikki BirrellNZ Herald·29 Aug, 2026 12:00 AM7 mins to readBiertan's fortified church rises above the village. Photo / Therese McNameeBiertan's fortified church rises above the village. Photo / Therese McNameeForget the crowds of the Camino de Santiago and walk Romania’s Via Transilvanica instead: a quieter, more affordable adventure, writes Nikki Birrell “It’s not funny.”
That’s what the proprietor of our Viscri accommodation tells us over the phone when we’re slightly tickled by parts of his bear-vigilance spiel while
