Aug 21, 2026 – 5.00amFun, frivolous, fresh, fruity. That’s how most of us think about rosé: a wine best drunk on a warm day, without much thought, when it’s young, a year or so after vintage.Winemaker Marcell Kustos thinks differently. “Of course there’s a place for cheap’n’cheerful rosés,” he says. “But I believe there’s also room for serious, complex rosés that deserve to be at the table in the finest of restaurants.” Kustos started making small batches of wine under the LVDO label in 2018, a “passion project” alongside his day jobs, first as a sommelier, then food and wine lecturer, now a partner in David Ridge Wines, a renowned Adelaide wine importer.Subscribe to gift this articleGift 5 articles to anyone you choose each month when you subscribe.Subscribe nowAlready a subscriber? Max AllenDrinks columnistMax Allen is The Australian Financial Review's drinks columnist. He is an award-winning journalist and author who has written about wine and drinks for close to 25 years.Fetching latest articles