In the world of fine dining, the amuse-bouche is arguably one of the most important mouthfuls a chef can serve their patrons. As a taste of what is to come, it has the potential to pack a world of information in a single bite.In this respect, the opening act for the sold-out A Taste of Home, by Windmill Grass Theatre – the troupe behind the hit Black Comedy Di-Dar – is one of its weaker moments, like a broth that needs more time to develop flavour.Moving across the stage while pushing glowing geometric frames with the slow and measured gait of street vendors, each member of the four-strong troupe – Joey Leung Cho-yiu, Luna Shaw Mei-kwan, Edmond Tong Chun-yip and Kearen Pang Sau-wai – takes turns reciting an abridged history of some of Hong Kong’s most iconic culinary figures, from baking queen Maria Lee Tseng Chiu-kwan to Lan Fong Yuen’s milk tea king Lam Muk-ho.Despite their intention to highlight the tenacity and resilience of these legendary names, the monologues have a saccharine, stilted quality to their delivery. Fortunately, this is the low from which the production then vaults into the highest of highs, with a punchy succession of skits and vignettes that are in turn rousing, tear-jerking and laugh-out-loud hilarious.Luna Shaw (left) and Kearen Pang in a scene from A Taste of Home. Photo: courtesy of Windmill Grass TheatreWith “memory” the common thread written into the script, the production – taking place at the intimate Sai Wan Ho Civic Centre – is remarkably personal. Between chapters, with the leading quartet weaving seamlessly between playing multiple characters as well as sharing their very real and individual recollections of meals and loved ones past, we hear recordings from members of the production crew as they, too, reveal their own food stories with vulnerability and wit.
Review | A Taste of Home is a wonderful, bittersweet tribute to Hong Kong’s food culture
Rousing, tear-jerking and laugh-out-loud hilarious, Windmill Grass Theatre’s new production is peak Hong Kong food nostalgia.







