Not long after arriving in Barnard Castle – when strangers have called out a cheery greeting, a quirky shop has caught your eye or you’ve glimpsed a pretty riverside – you start to wonder why you’ve never been before. Chances are, had it not been for that Covid incident, you might not have even heard of this town, scooped in a curve of the River Tees, teetering on the edge of the Pennines.
Yes, it’s small-ish (population: around 5,500), not that easy to get to without a car, and has limited Sunday openings – but that’s part of its charm. Along with its photogenic setting.
The town grew around the Norman castle that sits perched on a rocky cliff on the banks of the river, and later became a market centre for the surrounding farmland (Wednesday markets and monthly farmers’ markets still take place).
Don’t hurry along the streets with their handsome Georgian and Victorian buildings; there are independent shops to rummage through, side streets to explore, tiny cafes to chance upon and events to check at The Witham community arts centre. There are surprises, too: the hulking, French chateau-style Bowes Museum and the gardens and grand rooms of nearby Raby Castle. For more information, see visitcountydurham.org.
