Balloon pants have taken off as the fashionably airy style of this summer, but the silhouette has its origins in ancient dress: the şalvar in Turkey, the sirwal in Persia and the salwar in India. Its diaphanous fabrics and yoked, drawstring waist – which “balloons” from the hip, narrowing again at the ankle – may summon images of fairytale Arabian nights, but the style was born out of the need for modesty and practicality in hot climates: a light, full-coverage style that hangs away from the body.
Margene cotton Patiala pant, £465 © Indigo Lewin
Worn in the Ottoman court in the 14th century, adopted by the Mughals and carried west by Paul Poiret – who found inspiration in Ballets Russes productions of Scheherazade and dressed Paris in the style’s billowing volumes in the early 19th century – it rose again in the ’70s and ’80s via David Bowie and Grace Jones. Now it’s being worn with a Sade-esque nonchalance – with cropped structured tailoring and slim lines on top, and finished with a pointed shoe.
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The style is a move on from the barrel jean, the once “tricky” shape now widely adopted in denim and much promulgated as a silhouette at Alaïa under Pieter Mulier. Chloé, a house synonymous with an airy flou, is going big on them too, in crepe de Chine and silk with ribbons at the ankle cuff. Zimmermann has a variety of styles with elasticated waists in silk and transparent lace that can be worn with matching tops for a pyjama-ish cool. They’re also a favourite with mid-priced brands such as Birrot, which fuses Korean design heritage with Scandinavian minimalism, and Serena Bute, whose cotton styles in bubblegum pink, white and black have a pleasing crunch.
