Getting to Traena in Norway’s Arctic Circle is “a bit of a schlep”, said James Stewart in The Times. From Oslo, you can catch a flight to Bodo and then take a passenger ferry to Onoy, “a small island transit hub on the Helgeland coast”.The “first indication” that it’s going to be “worth it” comes as the ferry “weaves south where north Norway shatters into 20,000 islands”. But it’s confirmed on the final leg of the journey as a “fist of peaks nears in the open sea” during the hour-long crossing from Onoy to Husoy island.
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