I crane my neck as a huge shadow passes overhead. Even from all the way down here on our little boat, the enormous wingspan of a white-tailed eagle is unmistakable. Along the shores and islands of the Baltic Sea, these extraordinary birds of prey are now a common sight, having been brought back from the brink of extinction. Seeing one so close is a pretty special welcome to Sweden.
I am exploring the Östergötland Archipelago, a haven for nature and heritage, a couple of hours south of Stockholm, where many Swedes spend their summers. Its coastal towns and islands are easily accessible from the UK on regional flights via Amsterdam to Linköping – a short drive from the coast – or a two-hour train ride from Stockholm. You can also take the sleeper train from Berlin and Hamburg to Norrköping.
Unlike the capital’s busier and more populated archipelago, Östergötland feels wild and undiscovered outside Sweden. Scattered just off the coast, it comprises the Arkösund, Sankt Anna, and Gryt archipelagos, which together total around 9,000 islands, most of which are uninhabited and ideal for island-hopping.
The seaside village of Arkösund is a gateway to the archipelago (Photo: Visit Sweden)
Out here on the water, with just the rocky islands and the horizon for company, there is space to breathe. And while southern Europe bakes in heatwaves, this breezy coastline – where temperatures are a pleasantly mild 24°C or so – feels like the perfect summer escape.
