The Clareman’s show at Paris Haute Couture Week is the first by an Irish designer, while Jonathan Anderson wowed at Musee Rodin for DiorLooks from Michael Stewart's debut collection Standing Ground. Photograph: Ik Aldama Tue Jul 07 2026 - 10:25 • 3 MIN READLondon-based Clare designer Michael Stewart fulfilled a long-held ambition on Monday when he presented his first haute couture show on the official calendar in Paris. It marked a singular honour for an independent Irish designer. Held on the first day of Paris Haute Couture Week in the gilded salons of the Irish Embassy where Alison Milton (also from Clare) has just taken over as Irish ambassador, it was a hot ticket (in a very hot city) attended by local French and international press headed by Anna Wintour of Vogue and US Vogue editor Chloe Malle. Guests included Pascal Morand, president of the Federation de la Haute Couture, and Mary Blanchfield, chief executive of the Design & Crafts Council of Ireland, one of the supporters of the event. [ ‘Irish people love colour’: The Clare designer admired by Beyoncé, Tilda Swinton and Florence PughOpens in new window ]Expectations were high for the 36-year-old strong minded, visionary designer who founded his label Standing Ground five years ago, dedicated to modern evening wear at the highest level of craftsmanship. Known for his ability to manipulate fabric – notably silk and silk jersey – and for his shapes, silhouettes and sensuality, he presented some 30 individual pieces in this collection.Sweeping floor-length gowns, corseted, close-fitting, draped and swagged, his signature beading part of the structure of the garment, these pieces, individually crafted and hand-stitched, had a grandeur of their own and were very dramatic and elegant. Michael Stewart taking his bow at the finale of his show A look by Michael Stewart for his debut collection Standing Ground. Photograph: Ik Aldama A look by Michael Stewart for his debut collection Standing Ground. Photograph: Ik Aldama A look by Michael Stewart for his debut collection Standing Ground. Photograph: Ik Aldama A look by Michael Stewart for his debut collection Standing Ground. Photograph: Ik Aldama A look by Michael Stewart for his debut collection Standing Ground. Photograph: Ik Aldama A look by Michael Stewart for his debut collection Standing Ground. Photograph: Ik Aldama A look by Michael Stewart for his debut collection Standing Ground. Photograph: Ik Aldama A look from Michael Stewart's debut collection Standing Ground. Photograph: Ik Aldama A look from Michael Stewart's debut collection Standing Ground. Photograph: Ik Aldama Stewart’s skill lies in making something incredibly complex look deceptively simple, but all his clothes have that sculptural quality that makes a powerful statement on the runway or red carpet where his many fans include Beyoncé, Florence Pugh and Tilda Swinton. Colours were fresh and bold – blue, scarlet, emerald, lilac – with occasional unusual combinations (soft white skirt with a stiff primrose and green bustier) as well as black, pale grey and an earthy brown. A standout orange skirt in voluminous folds gathered around the waist was topped with a beaded black corset. Another gown in bright yellow silk was flounced at the back for extra oomph while another showstopper was a chocolate opera coat over a long chocolate jersey gown.The only trouser suit was black and sharply tailored while another black ensemble was a curved bustier standing proud over a long black skirt. The most spectacular garment worn by US model Kirsten McMenamy was a dress in Carrickmacross lace with a long train whose motifs Stewart had drawn himself. It took more than 20 lacemakers to complete; on its own the dress itself would have taken one lacemaker five years to finish, according to the designer Natalie B Coleman from Carrickmacross who was instrumental in gathering Irish lacemakers for the garment.The Carrickmacross lace dress by Michael Stewart for his debut collection Standing Ground. Photograph: Ik Aldama It was a very promising debut marking Stewart out as an Irish standard-bearer for individual craftsmanship and creativity committed to the making of beautiful clothes by hand from start to finish. One of his most influential American supporters, and a client, Jane Poon, had flown in from Los Angeles for the event. She told The Irish Times afterwards that his show was “too chic for London, but perfect for Paris”.Earlier that day Jonathan Anderson, fresh from his coup of making Taylor Swift’s wedding dress and with every formidable resource at his fingertips and a lot more fanfare, wowed his well-heeled guests with a spectacular haute couture show for Dior in the Musee Rodin. It featured 66 outfits made by specialist artisans from around the world and was inspired by the work of the American sculptor Lynda Benglis, particularly floral aspects of the jewellery and bags.The most striking outfits were those in swagged iridescent metallic pleating and dreamy soft white pleated dresses with ruffles, fringes and frills. One dress featured a huge embroidered fan and with rising temperatures making fans the accessories of the season – invitations to the show included one – that made its own talking point.A look from Dior Haute Couture A look from Dior Haute Couture A look from Dior Haute Couture IN THIS SECTION