With its apparel business growing 57.5% year over year and its LightSpray technology moving into scaled production, On gave media rare access to the Zurich labs behind its push to become a broader premium sportswear brand.During a tour of On’s Zurich performance lab in June, Swiss triathlete and Olympian Max Studer ran on a treadmill wearing a breathing mask and reflective markers fixed to his legs, waist and shoes. Cameras tracked his movement as data appeared on nearby monitors. Elsewhere in the building, engineers cut apart prototype soles, robotic arms moved LightSpray shoes through production, and a workshop wall displayed years of experimental footwear.
The visit came weeks after founders Caspar Coppetti and David Allemann returned to day-to-day operational leadership as co-CEOs on May 1. The pair had remained involved as executive co-chairmen, while Martin Hoffmann served as CEO.
The tour served as a statement of intent: On’s next phase will depend not only on selling more running shoes, but also on turning the development system behind them into a repeatable engine for apparel, lifestyle products and new sports.
In the first quarter, On generated approximately $1 billion in sales, up 26.4% at constant currencies, as reported by Glossy in May. Apparel remained a smaller portion of the business, at $66.5 million, but grew 57.5% at constant currencies and exceeded 10% of direct-to-consumer sales for the first time. During the earnings call, the company described the strategy as growing “toe to head,” although executives in Zurich said apparel is increasingly becoming a first entry point into the brand, particularly for younger consumers.
