Jul 6, 2026 – 5.00amA few years ago, winemaker Jim Markeas placed an ad in Neos Kosmos, the newspaper of the Greek Australian community, asking if any readers had grape vines growing in their backyards that originally came from their homeland.“About nine months later I got a call,” says Markeas. “This guy said he had a vine he called ‘Santorinio’ and was happy to let me take cuttings. That name intrigued me: the island of Santorini is where they grow the famous assyrtiko grape. So, we got some cuttings, had it tested, and it turned out it was indeed assyrtiko. And now we have it growing in our own vineyard in the Riverland.”Subscribe to gift this articleGift 5 articles to anyone you choose each month when you subscribe.Subscribe nowAlready a subscriber? Max AllenDrinks columnistMax Allen is The Australian Financial Review's drinks columnist. He is an award-winning journalist and author who has written about wine and drinks for close to 25 years.Fetching latest articles
The South Australian winemakers plucking victory from the jaws of defeat
Exotic grape varieties, interesting blends and approachability – a revised approach is helping Riverland vineyards buck $100 million in lost income a year.
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