Jul 3, 2026 – 5.00amEverything old is new again. In a hospitality ecosystem that has proven even the most beloved stalwarts are not immune to the cost-of-living crisis (RIP Quay, Tetsuya’s, Lucky Kwong etc), reinvigorating tired concepts can be the difference between survival and collapse. It’s little wonder then that some of the most compelling dining in Australia right now comes from established venues that have thrown out the old to usher in a new era, with fresh menus, marquee head chefs and seasonal fare that is of the moment, for the moment.Sydney and NSWSubscribe to gift this articleGift 5 articles to anyone you choose each month when you subscribe.Subscribe nowAlready a subscriber? Maxim DonniProduction editor, Life & LeisureMaxim Donni is the production editor of Life & Leisure at the Financial Review, based in Sydney. He writes about dining, hospitality and culture, and was previously editor of Time Out and Concrete Playground.Fetching latest articles