“Duck rillette, or rabbit?”

I’m in a Carrefour in Biarritz with my friend Lisa, perusing shelves of appealingly presented tins. Our trolley is already alive with colour: cherry tomatoes, gem lettuce and baby carrots frothing with delicate fronds sit alongside ruby-red strawberries and headily perfumed melon.

“Both,” she replies firmly, and I smile approvingly as she plucks the tins from my hands and puts them in the cart beside packets of crackers and crispbreads.

Shorts

While Lisa is a born foodie and hostess, this Carrefour version of me is very different from London Sarah, who puts off the weekly shop, eking out whatever lurks in the fridge. Switch holiday mode on, however, and I’m prioritising visits to the local supermarché.