Northern Tenerife bears little resemblance to the island’s sun-baked south coast. It is culturally and scenically more diverse, its lush landscape dotted with charming towns and villages that enjoy an average annual temperature of 23 degrees. The combined effect is bliss for those who love slow travel and a more considered approach to time out. Cool, coastal Puerto de la Cruz, known for its long-standing cultural scene, historic quarter and lively plazas, has been welcoming visitors since the late 19th century, when it was a popular spa destination. Nowadays it’s easy-going and relaxed, with stylish boardwalks, beaches, pretty parks and a leafy central square. Look out for its street art, particularly in the La Ranilla neighbourhood, created by noted Spanish and international artists. There’s no shortage of luxury hotels. For an adults-only getaway, the contemporary Radisson Resort and Residences is close to attractions such as Loro Parque, Teide National Park and Playa Jardin. Close to the town’s old port is the recently refurbished Precise Resort Tenerife, which makes for a gorgeous base, surrounded by subtropical botanical gardens, freshwater pools and sun terraces, and with a lava-sand beach just a short stroll away. It feels a world away from the clamour of the coast. For history buffs, San Cristóbal de La Laguna, a Unesco World Heritage Site, is the former capital of Tenerife and one of the most historically important cities in the Canary Islands. It is known for its colonial architecture, historic churches and convents, and its checkerboard layout, which served as an inspiration for cities such as Old Havana, in Cuba, and Cartagena de Indias, in Colombia. As a university town, it has a special energy, with quirky shops and a thriving cafe culture. The centre is completely pedestrianised, ideal for leisurely evening promenades, and the setting for the many musical and theatrical performances that are part of the annual Mi Barrio es Cultura festival programme. Another must-visit for its classical buildings and natural pools shaped by lava is Garachico, founded in 1496 by the Genoese merchant Cristóbal de Ponte. Exploring Teide National Park on two wheels La Orotava is considered one of the most beautiful towns on the island, with flower-filled streets and an impeccably preserved historic quarter. It’s been declared a Historic Artistic site, and also serves as a gateway to the Teide National Park, another Unesco World Heritage Site with a surreal, cratered landscape and the Teide volcano, which rises to an imposing height of 3,715m. While there are numerous walking trails, one of the most exciting visitor experiences is taking a cable car to travel up Mount Teide. The views are great. The volcanic valley extends majestically below, and on clear days you can see the islands of La Gomera, La Palma and El Hierro peeking up from the Atlantic. There are paragliding opportunities across the island, while hiking and mountain biking are also popular activities. Don’t leave without a photograph of one of the park’s most famous rock formations, the Roques de García.Less high octane but equally stunning is the Anaga Rural Park, a Unesco Biosphere Reserve, criss-crossed by walking trails and home to traditional villages and a prehistoric laurel forest often described as enchanted due to its special ambience.. A recommended walk is the Path of the Senses, which feels like stepping into a fairytale, where ancient trees form tunnels and it almost feels as if gnomes and elves might appear at any moment. Tenerife is also on the radar for a growing number of “astrotourists” – the night skies here are among the world’s clearest. Stargazing lookout points are found across the island, the best being in Teide National Park, designated a Starlight Reserve and Destination. From Tenerife it is possible to observe a large proportion of the 88 officially recognised constellations throughout the year. During summer, the main protagonists spotted are the misty band of the Milky Way and the Summer Triangle – a unique formation of three bright stars that reign over the top part of the night sky at this time of year. Observing the stars from the foot of a volcano in awe-inspiring silence is an unforgettable experience.The lush vineyards of Bodegas Monje On terra firma, it’s no surprise that amateur and professional golfers enjoy Tenerife’s eight courses year-round due to the temperate climate. It’s possible to play on mountain courses at an altitude of 700m, or on the coast, at the foot of a cliff or next to coves of sand and rock. The Hacienda del Conde Meliá Collection Golf & Spa adults only hotel is located near the sea at the island’s northwest tip.Sea air is good for the soul, and for the appetite. Eating well is one of the reasons so many tourists return to Tenerife, which has a thriving food scene. The island boasts 11 Michelin stars across nine restaurants (48 establishments have been recognised by the Repsol Guide), consolidating its reputation as a top-notch culinary destination. To get to know the island’s culinary culture, a visit to one of its guachinches is a must Visitors to these unpretentious, rustic eateries can sample local dishes and ingredients such as gofio (roasted grain flour), almogrote (spiced cheese spread), sancocho (salted fish stew) and ropa vieja (stewed beef and tomatoes). Another speciality is mojo sauce, made with garlic, vinegar, cumin and oil, often an accompaniment to dishes such as papas arrugadas (literally, wrinkled potatoes).For oenophiles, the combination of grape varieties, climate and volcanic soil means the island’s signature wines, Listán Negro y Listán Blanco, have a unique personality. There are more than 70 official bodegas on Tenerife, as well as a wine museum in El Sauzal, and any number of small producers, best discovered on one of the several expertly guided tasting tours available. Suertes del Marqués is a family-run winery in the Valle de La Orotava where vines are cultivated with a traditional braided cord system, a training system that is unique in the world.If you prefer a flop-and-drop-style holiday, there’s no shortage of four- and five-star resorts and boutique hotels where returning home considerably less addled than when you left is guaranteed. For oceanfront zen, look no further than Hotel Boutique Costa Mágica, a new eco hotel with 12 beautifully decorated rooms and an infinity pool with dreamy views of the Atlantic. Guests have access to numerous wellness activities and rituals, from yoga to Pilates sessions and a private beach club. costamagicasuites.comGuests staying at La Laguna Gran Hotel couldn’t be better placed to visit the historic centre of San Cristóbal de La Laguna. Its decor is a fusion of boutique hotel elements and traditional Canarian style housed in an original 18th-century manor house and former tobacco drying warehouse. Rooms are distinctive and serene – many with their own private terraces overlooking the hotel’s inner garden. Most guests make a beeline for the rooftop terrace which has a pool, sun loungers and a gym with an enviable view over the city. Its glamorous wine bar is perfect for a pre-dinner glass of cava or a post-dinner brandy. lalagunagranhotel.comGran Hotel Taoro For Canarian style it’s hard to beat Hotel San Roque, a boutique gem, in Garachico. It oozes character and is housed in a former 18th-century mansion, now a haven of art and design. Each of its 20 rooms is its own little masterpiece blending classic charm, Bauhaus flair and contemporary comforts. For a special treat, book La Torre Suite with its own sea-view terrace and Jacuzzi.. The beach is a five-minute stroll away, as is the village’s old quarter. Borrow a bike to explore, book a horse-riding experience or take off on one of the many hiking trails. After a day spent sightseeing, enjoy a relaxed dinner in its poolside Anturium Restaurant. hotelsanroque.com For a storied stay, The Gran Hotel Taoro, in Puerto de la Cruz, is a landmark hotel that originally opened in 1890. As well as royalty, it has hosted author Agatha Christie, who wrote part of The Mystery of the Blue Train there. Having closed in 1975, it has reopened this season after an extensive renovation that reflects its interesting past. The neoclassical elegance of the design is matched by the facilities – five restaurants, a wellness centre with Anne Semonin treatments, three pools and superb views of Mount Teide, the botanical gardens and the ocean. In short, a perfect snapshot of what Tenerife’s northern coast has to offer. granhoteltaoro.com/en