Belém Tower, Pastéis de Belém, the Jerónimos Monastery, tram 28, St George's Castle, or even the statue of Fernando Pessoa in Chiado, with which everyone wants to take a photo: all of them are Lisbon landmarks that are almost compulsory stops for anyone passing through the Portuguese capital, which is increasingly popular with travellers from all over the world. Yet they all share the same problem: tourists, lots of tourists. So many that at times it can be hard to move, the queues are long and you will struggle to feel you are in Portugal at all, as all around you you will hear plenty of French, English, Italian or Spanish... but very little Portuguese.
As for the 28, we won't dwell on it here, as every guidebook or website about Lisbon goes on about this tram line that threads its way through the city's historic quarters, climbing and descending hills from Prazeres to Martim Moniz via Chiado, Alfama and Graça. It is indeed a cheap way of getting a feel for some of the city's most characteristic neighbourhoods in a short time, on a charming, century‑old means of transport. To dodge the crowds, our only real tip is to go as early as possible. The saying “God helps those who rise early” could have been coined for travellers. If you like photography, you can also make the most of the beautiful early‑morning light.
