They say it is always cooler under a banyan tree. Sitting in the open, indoor-outdoor expanse of Zetu, the new 175-seater at 1AQ in Mehrauli, we find ourselves agreeing with this ancient wisdom. Though, we are not sure if the comfort is due to the majestic, 500-year-old banyan tree anchoring the courtyard or strategically placed outdoor AC vents, we are grateful for it, along with the fresh coconut water with greets us at the gate before a short buggy ride drops us at Zetu, built around contemporary Sri-Lankan cuisine.Settle into one of the cabanas on the rooftop, pull up a chair at the long tables in the outdoor section or grab yourself a cozy corner inside, and any expectation of a stuffy, high-concept design environment evaporates. Surrounded by lush greenery and tropical architecture inspired by legendary Sri Lankan architect Geoffrey Bawa, the space feels sophisticated yet unpretentious.
Firangipani Martini
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Special Arrangement
Derived from Setu — the Sanskrit word for bridge — the founders Sarah Nikahetiya, Anurag Dania, Abhishek Mathur and Sagar Garg — gave the name a “zingy Z” to give it a sharper, modern ring.Sarah, a former diplomat with the British High Commission stayed in Delhi for a couple of years, and fell in love with the capital before moving to Colombo, Sri Lanka. The idea for Zetu took shape during her own frequent flights back and forth across the ocean. “When you leave Colombo on your way to Delhi, that little string of islands between the two countries is the last thing you see when you exit Sri Lankan airspace. It’s such a small gap, but a significant one. We wanted to capture that conversation between modern Delhi and modern Sri Lanka, not just through the food, but through the design as well,” she says.When it comes to the food, there is a genuine sense of storytelling on the plate, culled from actual Sri Lankan home kitchens and street corners. Chef Dush Ratnayake from Sri Lanka leads the way, while Indian chefs Mohit Kumar and Romil Malhotra use their luxury hotel training to keep the massive 175-seater running smoothly.
