A new cap on bus fares in the Highlands and islands makes exploring this stunning archipelago in Scotland a breeze
T
he views are remarkable. From one window, gorse-gold hills roll west towards mountains patched with snow. On the other side, fields of new spring lambs slope down to a silver sea. Elsewhere, the bus crosses wide estuaries and cascading burns. There are thatched crofts, rocky bays and birch woods starred with anemones. One of the most remarkable things about this scenic 111-mile, 3½-hour trip on bus X99 is that it costs just £2.
Until March 2026, a single from Inverness to Scrabster on Scotland’s north coast was £28. Now, thanks to a new bus fare cap in Orkney, Highland and Moray, no journey in the area costs more than £2. The bus is timed to coincide with the Northlink Ferry to Stromness, Orkney’s second biggest town, and I’m heading there to explore by bus.
The ferry’s dining room serves Orkney smoked-cheddar macaroni cheese and Orkney fudge cheesecake. Afterwards, I stagger out on deck for blustery views of the Old Man of Hoy, its red sandstone glowing in the sunset. Scrabster to Stromness (£22-£26 each way for foot passengers) is the only ferry route that passes this 137-metre-tall sea stack off the coast of Orkney’s most mountainous island. A seal weaves through the waves below, among wide-winged gannets and sleek guillemots.
