With unique views, fascinating history and opportunities for wildlife-spotting, taking a small boat across a river or to an island can be a holiday highlight
T
he hills of the Scottish Highlands were still in sight when the cry went up: “Whale!” And there it was, a humpback on the port side of the Caledonian MacBrayne ferry, blasting a great cloud of mist from its blowhole, then with a farewell flick of its tail, disappearing into the Atlantic. On other voyages you may see glorious sunsets, rare migratory birds, ruined castles and historic lighthouses. Unlike the classic road trip or the great railway journey, however, the humble ferry rarely makes it to anyone’s bucket list. They are a means to an end, only chosen by necessity. And yet, the UK has some of the best and most exhilarating voyages within its borders. From exciting river crossings to island odysseys that test the mettle of the best sea captains, these boat journeys can be the high point of any trip.
Starting from Penzance’s South Pier, in sight of St Michael’s Mount, the crossing to St Mary’s is the indispensable highlight of any trip to the Isles of Scilly. The gas-guzzling, climate-clobbering helicopter doesn’t even approach the magic of this ship and its three-hour voyage into the Atlantic Ocean. Penzance bursts with nautical heritage; many of its remarkable number of pubs have existed since the days of Captain Kidd and Francis Drake. Once aboard the Scillonian (built in Appledore, Devon, in 1977), find a position with a view to the starboard to glimpse Land’s End on departure, then keep a lookout for wildlife. Dolphins and whales are sighted regularly on the voyage. Birdlife includes gannets, Manx shearwaters and puffins. Watch out for bird feeding frenzies, which may attract the attention of bluefin tuna (the half-ton fish can leap clear of the water and numbers are rising fast). Other potential highlights include fin whales, the planet’s second largest animal after the blue whale – with several sightings in 2024.
