Northern lights tours are big business in Northern Norway.David NikelThe first sign is often barely there. A faint smudge appears above the mountains, so pale it could be mistaken for cloud.Around you, camera shutters click, guides whisper instructions and people from all over the world stand silent in the Arctic cold, hoping for the sky to come alive.For many visitors to Northern Norway, this is the moment they came for. It is also the moment thousands more tourists are now chasing each winter, fueling one of Europe’s fastest-growing tourism markets.But that rapid growth has brought problems of its own. Police in Northern Norway have expelled 42 foreign nationals in recent months after controls targeting unlicensed aurora tours.Authorities say the problem is no longer limited to a handful of opportunistic drivers, but increasingly resembles organized activity coordinated from abroad.The issue has become especially visible in Tromsø, Lofoten and other Arctic destinations where winter tourism has surged.Police Target Illegal Northern Lights ToursThe latest figures reported by NRK include 28 expulsions in Nordland since September and 14 in Troms since January. The cases are linked to illegal passenger transport, often involving drivers who lacked both the necessary transport license and permission to work in Norway.Norwegian rules are clear. Anyone transporting passengers for hire or reward must have the appropriate transportation license, while tourism workers transporting passengers for hire need a passenger-carrying vehicle license.Police told NRK they had uncovered electronic traces showing drivers sharing advice in chat groups on how to avoid controls.Gudjon Omar Gudjonson, head of the border and immigration department at the Nordland Police District, explained that drivers discussed switching from nine-seater vehicles to ordinary five-seat cars to attract less attention, and asked tourists to pretend they were simply traveling together rather than paying customers of a tour.Tour groups travel far and wide in search of the northern lights.gettySome tourists had bought what they believed were safe package tours from their home countries, including flights, accommodation and aurora excursions. But when transport is unlicensed and drivers lack work permits, passengers may also lack the insurance protection they assume is in place.The Booming Northern Lights MarketThe northern lights have become one of Norway’s strongest winter tourism draws. Tromsø, in particular, has transformed from a relatively quiet Arctic city into one of Europe’s most popular bases for aurora hunting.Northern Norway recorded a 6% rise in commercial overnight stays in 2025, with international guest nights up 16%, according to official tourism data. That growth has created pressure on roads, parking areas, emergency services and local communities.Tromsø municipality and labor-crime authorities recently published new guidelines for aurora and fjord tour operators, covering legal requirements, winter driving, parking, waste, road safety and conduct in local communities.The municipality said the guide was created because inspections had uncovered rule breaches in the tourism industry and there was a need for clearer expectations.The official guidance also tells operators not to stop on roads or roadsides for photographs, not to block bus stops or rest areas, and to adapt speed to darkness, weather and wildlife.Not All Northern Lights Tours Are A ProblemAuthorities have stressed that most tour companies in Northern Norway operate legally. But the scale of the controls shows how attractive the market has become for unlicensed operators.A-krim, Norway’s inter-agency labor-crime center, has carried out extensive checks on tourism businesses in the north.In Nordland, 66 tourism operators offering guided experiences were checked over the past year, with breaches including illegal work, poor pay and working conditions, and unlicensed activity. Fines totaled more than 500,000 Norwegian kroner (approximately $48,000).Earlier this year, Nordic Labor Journal reported that inspections in Tromsø found breaches at more than half of 44 aurora tour operators checked together with the Norwegian Public Roads Administration.Those breaches included labor exploitation, missing employment contracts, illegal passenger transport and driving-time violations.How To Book Northern Lights ToursThe lesson for visitors is not to avoid northern lights tours. It is to take them seriously.A good aurora chase is not simply a drive into the dark. It involves winter roads, remote locations, fast-changing weather and long nights far from the city lights. That is why the difference between a licensed, insured operator and an informal driver matters.Tourists should be wary of unusually cheap tours sold through private messages, informal social media groups or cash-only arrangements. Established tour companies, hotel recommendations, official visitor centers and recognized booking platforms are safer starting points.Reviews can help, but look beyond the star rating. Recent comments about safe driving, communication, small group sizes, weather decisions and how cancellations are handled are more useful than a string of generic five-star reviews.It is also worth checking whether the company is listed by the local tourism board or destination marketing organization.In places such as Tromsø, that usually means looking for northern lights tours listed by the official visitor information channels, rather than relying only on social media ads or private recommendations.MORE FROM FORBESForbesWhy You Should Plan A Northern Lights Trip To Scandinavia In 2025By David NikelForbesDiscover These 3 Unexpected Delights Of A Northern Lights CruiseBy David NikelForbesThis Is Norway’s Year-Round Arctic Cruise PortBy David Nikel