Something Sweet brooch by A.Win Siu, titanium, enamel, Brazilian Paraíba tourmaline, Burmese sapphire, ruby, spinel, and diamonds, 2026© A.win SiuGemGenève, the gemstone and jewelry fair held in Geneva, Switzerland, has just closed its 10th edition, with record-breaking attendance. With gem dealers, a Designer Village, a historical jewelry exhibition, and strong links with jewelry educational institutions, the fair caters to high-level trade and public buyers each year in May.Something Sweet brooch by A.Win Siu, titanium, enamel, Brazilian Paraíba tourmaline, Burmese sapphire, ruby, spinel, and diamonds, 2026© A.win Siu“I think this tenth edition really delivered on its promises,” commented GemGenève co-founder Ronny Totah in an email. “Tra­ders, dealers, emerging artists and artisans… have all praised the good-quality discussions and unusually high levels of energy at the show, in an environment that’s proved to be especially good for sealing deals”. This year’s show, which closed May 10, welcomed over 5,365 visitors, up 10% on 2025 in one of its most successful editions since it began in 2018.A positive outlook for GemGenèveIn a global market under stress from geopolitical tension and economic uncertainty, the event’s success sent a strong message of confidence to the wider gem and jewelry industry. “For us, it’s business as usual right now, even pretty good,” said fair co-founder Thomas Faerber at the GemGenève opening press conference. He added: “there are always storms in world, but I’m confident for the future and for GemGenève.” Totah noted that there had been no cancellations, signalling an upbeat outlook for the industry.Inside the venue in the picturesque lakeside city, the mood was celebratory as industry figures reconnected as they wandered the aisles of gem and antique dealers. Alongside, a slimmed-down Designer Village provided room spend more time at each stand, as established and emerging designers from four continents rubbed shoulders with the Jewellery and Gemstone Association of Africa (JGAA), Armenian Jewellers Association (AJA) and Strong & Precious Art Foundation (Ukraine).MORE FOR YOULightweight jewels, iridescent hues, and Italian craftsmanship by Lightweight jewels, iridescent hues, and Italian craftsmanship Sebastián Plah@ Sebastián PlahChampioning creativityThe Chinese designer A.Win Sui was also celebrating 10 years of her business, with a look back at some of her greatest hits as well as selected new pieces, including two head-turning brooches. One, a titanium ear, celebrated traditional Chinese medicine with gemstones placed at specific acupoints of the ear. Nearby, was a red enamel and diamond candy machine brooch, described by the designer as “one of my most significant pieces of 2026,” combining Paraiba tourmaline, Burmese sapphire, ruby, and spinel. Turn the tiny diamond handle to change the gemstone at the bottom, in an inventive piece of kinetic jewelry.Nearby, French brand Incarnem showcased gold and silver body parts. Ex-Schiaparelli designer Marine Billet casts fingertips, knuckles and even nipples to create jewelry that feels both protective and empowering, and has already earned the Elle and LVMH Prix des Artisanes. Next door, Richard Wu’s kinetic diamonds quivered on wires inside their titanium cages, in deceptively complex jewels with minimalist appeal.The Aube clutch bag, in Nilus Crocodilus leather, 18kt gold, natural sapphires and diamonds is where leatherwork meets high jewelry.© Hemera Paris“[The best part of] curating the Designer Village, is seeing the confidence they gain in just a few days,” said Nadège Totah during the opening press conference. “Young designers embody daring, creativity and contemporary sensitivities. Supporting them is a way of making sure jewelry doesn’t lose its heart and soul.”Exhibiting for the first time were Plah, designed by Colombian-born Sebastian Plah, whose bold designs based on carnivorous plants saw him win the Best in Special/Young Designer award at Vincenza Ora 2023, and French house Hermera. Founded in 2024 by Florian Pitout, it’s an all-around métiers d’art brand, showing immaculately crafted leather clutch bags with fine jewelry ornamentation and closures worthy of luxury cars.The Impulse pendant by Anna Hlanskova uses modernist language to explore the transformative nature of electrical energy.Anna HlanskovaDeep dive into Ukrainian and African talentAcross the hall, this edition’s Strong & Precious cohort had explored the Ukrainian avant-garde art movement of the 1920s and 1930s, as designers looked to Ukrainian-born artists such as Kazimir Malevich and Sonia Delaunay. Winners of the Foundation’s annual open design competition were Studio AGATE, inspired by a drawing by Yevmen Pshechenko to create two colourful kinetic brooches; Igor Pingin, who showed a trio of modernist rings referencing architectural construction beams; and Lobortas, whose ebony and white gold kinetic pendant paid tribute to Malevich’s Black Square and Black Circle. The final winner, Anna Hlanskova, created a complex and moving piece based on modernist forms referencing power lines, which she described as “the nervous system of civilisation.” Hlanskova is still based in Ukraine, where power cuts are a part of daily life; in her design, energy becomes transformative, both creative and destructive.The winners of the JGAA’s Design Dynamic competition were also announced at GemGenève. Entrants were tasked with designing a piece of jewelry around African birdlife by the organization, which works towards economic transformation through jewelry and was launched at last year’s show. Winning entries from South Africa, Egypt, Eswatini and Brazil paid testament to the vibrant design talent of African origin on the continent and across the diaspora.Finger jewelry by Incarnem@Kevin DrelonCraftsmanship of the pastAlongside modern-day design talent, the annual exhibition paid tribute to the ingenuity and skill with which humans have worked with natural minerals and gems for decorative and body adornment in the past. Shaping Matter, Enhancing Beauty, curated by show director Mathieu Dekeukelaire was produced this year with the Baur Foundation, and included 18th-century carved jade, Canton ivory and jewelry and objects from the 19th century to the present day.Such history is sure to have inspired the jewelry students and educational institutions in attendance. Laura Inghirami, of Donna Jewel, brought a delegation from two Italian design schools, Galdus School and Tari Design School, and GemGenève partners schools. One previous student exhibitor, Hugo Massey, a winner of the show’s Eric Horovitz Foundation award, was back at the show as head of Piat’s Geneva studio.The day following the press conference, the GemGenève team celebrated the milestone with a cocktail party at Geneva’s Museum of Art and History. As friends of the show, exhibitors and guests celebrated in the courtyard of the Museum of Art and History, the co-founders gave a speech marking their milestone. “People thought we were crazy to start a fair,” said Faerber, “but look where we are now.”