Joseph. JOSEPH
Although it pales in comparison to Milan and Paris, London Fashion Week still managed to put on 41 shows between February 19 and 23. A multitude of collections entrusted emerging talent with injecting new energy. Among the promising proposals were the ethereal knitwear of French designer Pauline Dujancourt, the understated menswear uniforms of British designer Luke Derrick, the sexy dresses by Brazilian Karoline Vitto – designed for a range of body types beyond the smallest sizes – and a "tribute to immigration" by British-Nigerian Tolu Coker, who welcomed a distinguished guest in the front row: King Charles III himself. The more established brands faced a challenge of their own: Each had to reinvent itself to remain attractive over the long term.
The house of Joseph, absent from the schedule since September 2017, made its return to the runway. "I very much remember what the brand stated for back in the 1990s: It was a cool trailblazer. I've tried to capture that energy and make it relevant for 2026," said Mario Arena, the brand's creative director since August 2024. To do so, Arena retained the strengths of the institution founded in 1972 by Joseph Ettedgui, a Casablanca native who opened a hair salon in London before befriending Kenzo Takada and Azzedine Alaïa and launching into knitwear: cocoon coats, wide-legged trousers, refined leather (ultra-thin nappa, stamped, crocheted or laser-cut).
